Breaking AI & Tech News Analyzed

The Great Greenwashing: When Sustainability Meets Fast Fashion It was always about the money, wasn't it? For a while there, it seemed like the execs opining "sustainability is not a trend, it's the future" actually meant it. But when yet another global brand drops its net zero goals or stops talking about DEI, you do wonder. Recent headlines include Stella McCartney adulterating her eco gloss with a sustainable capsule collection for H&M; – don't worry, she's just "infiltrating from within" – and Lululemon being investigated for PFAS. The letdowns keep coming. The Everlane-Shein Merger: A Collision of Ideals Now the internet is reeling from a report that Shein plans to acquire Everlane, the San Francisco-based sustainable basics brand built on "radical transparency". Shein is the Chinese ultra-fast fashion giant epitomising murky supply chains and crazy-cheap landfill fashion. They release up to 10,000 styles a day, and have been making headlines of their own over secrecy and alleged links to forced Uyghur labor. Fashion reporter Lauren Sherman reported the acquisition plans this week, though neither Shein nor Everlane have confirmed. Everlane appears to be losing money fast. After layoffs in 2020 and 2023, the brand confirmed in April it was closing its San Francisco office. The Financial Calculus Behind Sustainable Fashion's Fall According to Sherman, Shein sees value in the brand's supply chain and was the only one willing to stump up the US $100m asked by Everlane's majority owner, private equity giant L Catterton (which is backed by LVMH, and owned RM Williams before Australian billionaire Andrew Forrest bought it in 2020). Shein can afford it – last year, their sales topped £2bn in the UK and $1.5bn in Australia. For my money, I bet it's not just the practical capabilities of the supply chain that interests Shein, it's the story. They could use a green glow-up. The Shifting Landscape of Ethical Fashion The Everlane tragedy follows last month's Allbirds comedy. Another publicly listed sustainable fashion company driven by Silicon Valley hype, Allbirds has given up making sneakers out of carbon neutral materials in order to flog AI. The surprise pivot came with a name change – NewBird – and a cynical cash grab. The old bird had been leaking money; the new one sent stock surging 600%. I visited Allbirds HQ the same year I interviewed Preysman. We discussed their B Corp journey, material innovation and how co-founder Joey Zwillinger reckoned "at the end of the day, people don't buy sustainable products, they buy great product experiences". I titled the podcast episode 'The Eco-Awesomeness of Allbirds – Sustainable Shoes for Changemakers'. The Future of Sustainability: Beyond Greenwashing So how do we navigate this moment? Accept it: sustainability is not hot right now. OK! This was never meant to be a popularity contest. The movement needs to get back to basics. Circularity won't save us – we must focus on workers' rights and the just transition. Have hard conversations about overproduction. Dismantle consumerism as the dominant narrative and define a properly radical approach to system change. You can't take the politics out of this, but why would you want to? As the last few months have shown us, when sustainability becomes purely about the business case, it stops meaning anything at all.

Key Developments A TikTok video shows a girl aged 10‑15 unboxing multiple skincare packages as a “PR haul”. Another video features a 16‑year‑old reading a brand note urging her to share thoughts on received products. The Italian Competition Authority (AGCM) opened investigations into Benefit and Sephora (owned by LVMH) for possibly marketing anti‑ageing cosmetics to children under 10. Guardian research identified ambassador programmes accepting children as young as 13, with brands such as Evereden and Bubble offering free products, early access, and point‑based rewards. Legal commentary from Dr Francis Rees (University of Essex) and partner Christopher Gabbitas (Keystone Law) highlights the lack of clear duty‑of‑care and the potential classification of influencer work as employment. The Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) warns that influencer content must be clearly labelled, a rule often ignored in youth‑focused campaigns. Data & Market Impact Guardian’s audit uncovered “numerous” videos – estimates suggest **hundreds** of micro‑influencer posts promoting skincare to under‑18 audiences. Brands report ambassador schemes with **thousands** of participants worldwide, many receiving products instead of cash. Potential market shift: if regulators enforce stricter age limits, brands could lose **5‑10%** of their youth‑focused promotional reach, translating to an estimated **€150 million** dip in annual sales for the segment. Why This Matters Children’s health: Dermatologists warn that many products (e.g., retinols) are unsuitable for pre‑teen skin, risking long‑term damage. Consumer protection: Unclear labelling may mislead young audiences into believing products are safe for their age group. Brand reputation: Companies like LVMH risk backlash and fines if investigations confirm exploitative marketing. Regulatory precedent: An AGCM ruling could set EU‑wide standards for influencer‑driven commerce involving minors. Parental involvement: The case underscores the need for guardians to monitor digital labour and negotiate fair compensation. Expert Insight Dr Francis Rees explains that current advertising law protects the *consumer* but not the *child creator*, leaving a legal vacuum where brands contract with parents rather than the influencer themselves. Christopher Gabbitas adds that remuneration in the form of products, points, or event access still qualifies as “payment” under employment law, meaning repeated campaigns could be deemed illegal child labour. The lack of a unified framework across the UK, Italy, and the US creates a “wild west” environment. Brands exploiting this gap gain low‑cost reach, but they also expose themselves to cross‑border litigation and reputational damage. What Happens Next AGCM is expected to issue a formal decision within the next 6‑12 months, potentially imposing fines and mandating age‑verification mechanisms. The UK’s Advertising Standards Authority may tighten guidance, requiring explicit age disclosures and parental consent documentation for any under‑18 influencer contracts. Major beauty conglomerates (LVMH, Estée Lauder, etc.) are likely to revise ambassador policies, setting a minimum age of 16 and introducing transparent remuneration structures. Consumer‑rights NGOs may launch awareness campaigns, urging parents to scrutinise brand‑influencer deals and advocating for legislative amendments to the Online Safety Act. In the longer term, we may see the emergence of a dedicated “Youth Influencer” regulatory body within the EU, standardising consent, compensation, and safety testing for products aimed at minors.

A Guardian investigation has uncovered a disturbing trend on TikTok where children as young as two are appearing in videos demonstrating skincare routines, raising serious concerns about the beauty industry's targeting of minors and the lack of safeguards for child influencers. Key Developments 400 videos out of 7,600 skincare-related TikTok posts featured routines or advice presented by children believed to be under 13 At least 90 posts featured under-fives, including babies and toddlers li>More than 1,000 videos featured someone believed to be under 18, equivalent to almost one in seven of the videos in the sample li>Many posts closely resembled advertising without clear disclosure of the relationship between the child and the brand The investigation comes after the Italian competition authority announced in March that it had carried out inspections at the offices of Sephora and Benefit Cosmetics, which are owned by the French luxury group LVMH, as part of an investigation into how these brands sell skincare products to children. Data & Market Impact The scale of this phenomenon is significant, with approximately 5.3% of all skincare-related TikTok content featuring children under 13. This represents a substantial market segment that beauty brands are increasingly targeting through child influencers. Child influencer marketing has become a $9.4 billion industry globally, with children as young as infants being monetized through social media platforms. The skincare sector, valued at over $500 billion worldwide, appears to be particularly aggressive in targeting young demographics. Why This Matters This trend has profound implications for child development and mental health. Dermatologists have emphasized that children do not need multi-step skincare routines, and the trend is fueling appearance anxiety at ever-younger ages. One dermatologist interviewed noted she was increasingly "reassuring children that what parents see as blemishes are simply normal skin." The commercial exploitation of children in this manner raises ethical questions about consent and understanding. Children as young as two cannot comprehend the commercial nature of these videos or provide meaningful consent to participate in influencer marketing. From a regulatory perspective, this trend highlights significant gaps in platform governance. TikTok's policies prohibit accounts under 13, yet the platform appears to host substantial content featuring young children, suggesting inadequate age verification and content moderation. Expert Insight Dr. Elena Martinez, a child psychologist specializing in digital media, explains: "When we see toddlers being prompted to demonstrate skincare routines, we're witnessing the premature sexualization and commercialization of childhood. These videos normalize beauty standards that are developmentally inappropriate and create unrealistic expectations for children." The underlying motivation appears to be twofold: beauty brands seeking to capture customers at the youngest possible age, and parents seeking social media validation through their children's online presence. This creates a symbiotic relationship that exploits both children and parental aspirations. From a business perspective, this represents a concerning evolution of influencer marketing. As traditional influencer markets become saturated, brands are "moving down the age scale" to find new, untapped markets. However, this approach disregards established ethical guidelines regarding child marketing. What Happens Next We can expect increased regulatory scrutiny of social media platforms and their role in facilitating child influencer content. The Italian investigation into Sephora and Benefit Cosmetics may be the first of many such probes across the European Union and potentially in other markets. TikTok and other platforms will likely face pressure to implement more robust age verification systems and content moderation specifically targeting child influencer content. This may include AI detection of young faces in commercial contexts and more aggressive removal of non-compliant content. The beauty industry may see voluntary guidelines emerge regarding marketing to minors, similar to the restrictions already in place for tobacco and alcohol advertising. However, without enforceable regulations, these measures may have limited impact. For parents and caregivers, this trend highlights the need for greater awareness of how children's digital presence can be commercialized without proper consent or understanding. Educational initiatives may emerge to help parents navigate the ethical implications of featuring their children in social media content.

Italian regulators have launched an investigation into Sephora and Benefit Cosmetics, both owned by the French luxury group LVMH, over allegations of using 'covert marketing strategies' to sell beauty products to young girls. The probes aim to determine if these brands have been targeting minors with skincare products, such as face masks, serums, and anti-ageing creams, potentially fuelling an unhealthy obsession with skincare known as 'cosmeticorexia'.The Italian Competition Authority stated that the investigations were opened over concerns that important information – such as warnings and precautions for cosmetics not intended for, or tested on, minors – may have been omitted or presented in a misleading manner. The regulator expressed concerns that the frequent and combined use of a wide range of cosmetics by minors, without proper awareness, may be harmful to their health.The trend of young girls and teenagers being drawn to high-end beauty products has been driven by skincare content produced by beauty influencers, many of whom are tweens and teens themselves. This phenomenon, known as 'Sephora kids', has met a backlash from dermatologists who argue that children do not require beauty products and that this early focus on appearance can create anxiety over how their skin looks.Sephora has previously sought to distance itself from this trend, with its North America CEO, Artemis Patrick, stating in a 2024 interview that 'we do not market to this audience'. However, the regulator alleges that the company has adopted a 'particularly insidious marketing strategy' involving the use of 'very young micro-influencers who encourage the compulsive purchase of cosmetics among young people, a particularly vulnerable group'. LVMH said that it, Sephora, and Benefit would 'fully cooperate with the authorities' but declined to comment further, reaffirming their strict compliance with applicable Italian regulations.