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May 20, 2026
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Sustainable Fashion's Hypocrisy Exposed: When Everlane Meets Shein

AI Summary
The sustainable fashion movement faces credibility crises as ethical brands like Everlane consider acquisition by fast fashion giants like Shein, while Allbirds abandons its sustainability roots. This analysis examines how the business case for sustainability has overshadowed its original purpose, leaving activists and true believers questioning the movement's future.

The Great Greenwashing: When Sustainability Meets Fast Fashion

It was always about the money, wasn't it? For a while there, it seemed like the execs opining "sustainability is not a trend, it's the future" actually meant it. But when yet another global brand drops its net zero goals or stops talking about DEI, you do wonder. Recent headlines include Stella McCartney adulterating her eco gloss with a sustainable capsule collection for H&M – don't worry, she's just "infiltrating from within" – and Lululemon being investigated for PFAS. The letdowns keep coming.

The Everlane-Shein Merger: A Collision of Ideals

Now the internet is reeling from a report that Shein plans to acquire Everlane, the San Francisco-based sustainable basics brand built on "radical transparency". Shein is the Chinese ultra-fast fashion giant epitomising murky supply chains and crazy-cheap landfill fashion. They release up to 10,000 styles a day, and have been making headlines of their own over secrecy and alleged links to forced Uyghur labor.

Fashion reporter Lauren Sherman reported the acquisition plans this week, though neither Shein nor Everlane have confirmed. Everlane appears to be losing money fast. After layoffs in 2020 and 2023, the brand confirmed in April it was closing its San Francisco office.

The Financial Calculus Behind Sustainable Fashion's Fall

According to Sherman, Shein sees value in the brand's supply chain and was the only one willing to stump up the US $100m asked by Everlane's majority owner, private equity giant L Catterton (which is backed by LVMH, and owned RM Williams before Australian billionaire Andrew Forrest bought it in 2020). Shein can afford it – last year, their sales topped £2bn in the UK and $1.5bn in Australia.

For my money, I bet it's not just the practical capabilities of the supply chain that interests Shein, it's the story. They could use a green glow-up.

The Shifting Landscape of Ethical Fashion

The Everlane tragedy follows last month's Allbirds comedy. Another publicly listed sustainable fashion company driven by Silicon Valley hype, Allbirds has given up making sneakers out of carbon neutral materials in order to flog AI. The surprise pivot came with a name change – NewBird – and a cynical cash grab. The old bird had been leaking money; the new one sent stock surging 600%.

I visited Allbirds HQ the same year I interviewed Preysman. We discussed their B Corp journey, material innovation and how co-founder Joey Zwillinger reckoned "at the end of the day, people don't buy sustainable products, they buy great product experiences". I titled the podcast episode 'The Eco-Awesomeness of Allbirds – Sustainable Shoes for Changemakers'.

The Future of Sustainability: Beyond Greenwashing

So how do we navigate this moment? Accept it: sustainability is not hot right now. OK! This was never meant to be a popularity contest. The movement needs to get back to basics. Circularity won't save us – we must focus on workers' rights and the just transition. Have hard conversations about overproduction. Dismantle consumerism as the dominant narrative and define a properly radical approach to system change. You can't take the politics out of this, but why would you want to?

As the last few months have shown us, when sustainability becomes purely about the business case, it stops meaning anything at all.