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The Great Greenwashing: When Sustainability Meets Fast Fashion It was always about the money, wasn't it? For a while there, it seemed like the execs opining "sustainability is not a trend, it's the future" actually meant it. But when yet another global brand drops its net zero goals or stops talking about DEI, you do wonder. Recent headlines include Stella McCartney adulterating her eco gloss with a sustainable capsule collection for H&M; – don't worry, she's just "infiltrating from within" – and Lululemon being investigated for PFAS. The letdowns keep coming. The Everlane-Shein Merger: A Collision of Ideals Now the internet is reeling from a report that Shein plans to acquire Everlane, the San Francisco-based sustainable basics brand built on "radical transparency". Shein is the Chinese ultra-fast fashion giant epitomising murky supply chains and crazy-cheap landfill fashion. They release up to 10,000 styles a day, and have been making headlines of their own over secrecy and alleged links to forced Uyghur labor. Fashion reporter Lauren Sherman reported the acquisition plans this week, though neither Shein nor Everlane have confirmed. Everlane appears to be losing money fast. After layoffs in 2020 and 2023, the brand confirmed in April it was closing its San Francisco office. The Financial Calculus Behind Sustainable Fashion's Fall According to Sherman, Shein sees value in the brand's supply chain and was the only one willing to stump up the US $100m asked by Everlane's majority owner, private equity giant L Catterton (which is backed by LVMH, and owned RM Williams before Australian billionaire Andrew Forrest bought it in 2020). Shein can afford it – last year, their sales topped £2bn in the UK and $1.5bn in Australia. For my money, I bet it's not just the practical capabilities of the supply chain that interests Shein, it's the story. They could use a green glow-up. The Shifting Landscape of Ethical Fashion The Everlane tragedy follows last month's Allbirds comedy. Another publicly listed sustainable fashion company driven by Silicon Valley hype, Allbirds has given up making sneakers out of carbon neutral materials in order to flog AI. The surprise pivot came with a name change – NewBird – and a cynical cash grab. The old bird had been leaking money; the new one sent stock surging 600%. I visited Allbirds HQ the same year I interviewed Preysman. We discussed their B Corp journey, material innovation and how co-founder Joey Zwillinger reckoned "at the end of the day, people don't buy sustainable products, they buy great product experiences". I titled the podcast episode 'The Eco-Awesomeness of Allbirds – Sustainable Shoes for Changemakers'. The Future of Sustainability: Beyond Greenwashing So how do we navigate this moment? Accept it: sustainability is not hot right now. OK! This was never meant to be a popularity contest. The movement needs to get back to basics. Circularity won't save us – we must focus on workers' rights and the just transition. Have hard conversations about overproduction. Dismantle consumerism as the dominant narrative and define a properly radical approach to system change. You can't take the politics out of this, but why would you want to? As the last few months have shown us, when sustainability becomes purely about the business case, it stops meaning anything at all.

The Climate Crisis of the World CupThe 2026 FIFA World Cup is shaping up to be not only the most politically combustible tournament in modern history but also potentially the most environmentally damaging. As soccer fans increasingly watch preparations through their fingers amid controversies over ticket prices, Iran's participation, and ICE's role, a more long-term peril is being overlooked: the tournament's staggering contribution to climate change.The Environmental Footprint of Expanded TournamentScientists conservatively project that the 2026 World Cup will generate around 9 million tons of carbon dioxide equivalent, nearly double the historical average for tournaments between 2010 and 2022. Air travel comprises approximately 7.7 million tons of this carbon budget—more than four times that of the average for previous tournaments. The worst-case upper estimate for air transport is about 13.7 million tons of CO2.This environmental disaster stems from FIFA's decision to expand the tournament from 32 to 48 teams while selecting three host countries—Canada, Mexico, and the US—that encompass a massive geographical expanse. The distances fans and teams need to travel make less carbon-intensive forms of transportation impractical, even with improved infrastructure.The Carbon Cost of FIFA's GreenwashingFIFA has long been a shameless purveyor of greenwashing. Ahead of the 2022 World Cup in Qatar, FIFA President Gianni Infantino implored soccer fans to "raise FIFA's green card for the planet" by recording messages about environmental preservation. In reality, the Qatar tournament was a "carbon bomb in sporty form" that necessitated more than 1,000 daily flights, used an energy-intensive desalination system, and relied largely on bogus carbon-offset schemes.The 2026 tournament is even worse. Scholar Tim Walters argues that this World Cup is the deadliest sporting event in history due to increased greenhouse gas emissions causing premature deaths—a sign of FIFA's "abject misanthropy."Travel Nightmares and Environmental HypocrisyThe geographical challenges are staggering. Bosnia and Herzegovina's squad will have to travel more than 5,000km from Toronto to Los Angeles to Seattle, with their training camp in Salt Lake City adding additional carbon miles. Algeria will rack up about 4,800km journeying from Kansas City to San Francisco and back. Czechia starts in Guadalajara before heading to Atlanta and then Mexico City, notching more than 4,500km.Lacquer on top of this is FIFA's sponsorship deal with Aramco, the state-owned Saudi energy behemoth that is the largest corporate greenhouse gas emitter on earth, responsible for more than 4% of all emissions since 1965. More than 100 professional female footballers, including some of the biggest names in the game, signed a letter condemning the partnership, citing environmental impacts as a serious problem.Extreme Heat Threatens Player and Fan SafetyPlayer safety is also in jeopardy thanks to extreme heat brought on by climate change. The National Weather Service is warning that every single region of the US will experience temperatures that exceed historical averages during the tournament. A Guardian analysis found that "high levels of heat and humidity will impact the ability of teams to perform on the field," with 26 matches likely to be played when the temperature is at or above 26C (78.8F) WBGT—a threshold beyond which cooling breaks are necessary.An academic study found that 14 out of 16 host cities are likely to experience average WBGTs that exceed 28C (82.4F) in June and July. While three of the cities most exposed to dangerous heat—Houston, Dallas, and Atlanta—have air-conditioned stadiums, the energy needed to power that cooling doesn't help climate change.The Path Forward for Sustainable SportsDr. Madeleine Orr of the University of Toronto, one of the authors of the heat study, noted the "lack of commonsense preparations by event organizers to keep people safe in extreme weather conditions." She added, "The only interest is in protecting athletes on the field, with basically no consideration for fans, staff, the media and volunteers working in the stands or on the streets."As climate litigation against unrepentant greenwashers continues to rack up wins, FIFA faces increasing pressure to align its actions with its environmental rhetoric. The 2026 World Cup represents a critical juncture for global sports organizations to either continue down a path of environmental destruction or begin implementing meaningful sustainability measures that address the climate crisis head-on.

The Lead: Norway's Strategic Energy PivotIn a significant policy shift, Norway has announced the reopening of three major gas fields in the North Sea, nearly three decades after they were closed. This decision underscores Norway's commitment to maintaining and expanding its oil and gas production to ensure energy security for Europe, particularly in the wake of geopolitical disruptions from the Ukraine war and Middle East tensions.The Event Details: Reopening of Albuskjell, Vest Ekofisk and Tommeliten GammaEnergy Minister Terje Aasland has made it clear that Norway's strategy is to "develop, not dismantle, activity on our continental shelf." The three gasfields—Albuskjell, Vest Ekofisk and Tommeliten Gamma—will reopen by the end of 2028 to address the current energy shortfall. This decision will help maintain gas and oil production at approximately the 2025 level, which has been stable for nearly two decades.With 97 offshore oilfields currently in operation (three of which came online last year), Norway's Norwegian Offshore Directorate expects the number to reach "100 and beyond" within the next two years. The country continues to produce at least 2 million barrels of oil daily, with the Barents Sea in the high north emerging as the new frontier for gas and oil exploration.The Data Analysis: Financial Impacts and Industry InvestmentsThe energy sector generates substantial wealth for Norway, with the state's 67% stake in Equinor yielding approximately £2 billion in dividends this year. To maintain production levels, Equinor is committed to investing $6 billion (£4.4 billion) annually up to 2035, focusing on increased drilling, new developments, pipeline expansions, and potentially developing smaller fields.Norway's consistent 78% taxation rate on oil and gas firms—unchanged since the 1970s—provides predictability for investors while funding the country's £1.5 trillion sovereign wealth fund. This financial approach has helped Norway maintain a sizeable surplus and supports the 210,000 jobs in the energy sector.The Impact Analysis: European Energy Security vs Environmental ConcernsNorway's expanded production plays a crucial role in European energy security, currently supplying gas for approximately one-third of Europe's consumption. Energy Minister Aasland emphasizes that "the world, and Europe, will have a need for oil and gas for decades to come" and that Norway has a responsibility to remain a reliable supplier.However, this policy has drawn significant criticism. Norway's environment agency has advised against the decision, and the Socialist Left party has accused the government of "greenwashing." Deputy leader Lars Haltbrekken contends that the government is "blatantly ignoring environmental advice from its own experts" and putting vulnerable natural areas at risk.This approach stands in stark contrast to neighboring the UK, which has ruled out new oil and gas exploration licenses, highlighting a significant divergence in energy strategies between North Sea neighbors.The Prediction: Norway's Energy Future Through 2035 and BeyondLooking ahead, Norway appears committed to prolonging and potentially increasing oil and gas production well into the 2030s and beyond. Chief economist Terje Sørenes of the Norwegian Offshore Directorate indicates the aim is to "prolong production as long as possible, and increase output" to maintain Europe's energy security.As Europe continues to navigate its energy transition, Norway's position as a reliable supplier of fossil fuels may create tensions with climate goals. The country's ability to balance economic interests with environmental responsibilities will be closely watched, particularly as other European nations accelerate their renewable energy transitions.

Executive Overview: WPP’s Role in the US Oil Advertising MachineWPP, the London‑based advertising conglomerate, has been identified as the primary conduit for a $1.5 bn (£1.1 bn) spend by four major oil companies in the United States since the 2015 Paris Agreement. The spend, uncovered by climate‑investigations platform DeSmog, highlights a systematic effort to shape public perception of fossil‑fuel producers while contradicting declared climate goals.WPP’s $1.5 bn Campaign Fuelling US Oil Advertising Since the Paris AccordThe DeSmog analysis shows that ExxonMobil, Chevron, Shell and BP relied on WPP’s global network—including agencies Ogilvy and Wavemaker—to design, place and optimise ads across TV, social media and outdoor venues. WPP was the only major holding company to partner with all four majors on US projects, accounting for roughly two‑thirds of the total ad volume.Period covered: 2015‑2025Total US ad spend by the four oil majors: $1.5 bnWPP’s share of that spend: ~66%Comparable visual: enough to fill Times Square billboards daily for a decadeFinancial Scale: $1.5 bn in US Ad Spend Across Four MajorsThe $1.5 bn figure translates into millions of dollars in annual revenue for WPP, despite the firm’s 2022 policy that purportedly barred work “frustrating” the Paris goals. By contrast, rival agencies Omnicom and IPG together accounted for less than half of WPP’s exposure.Omnicom & IPG combined spend: ~$800 mFourth‑place holder Dentsu: $255 mFifth‑place holder Havas: $230 mHow WPP’s Greenwashing Undermines Climate CommitmentsInternal testimonies describe “deceptive and misleading” messaging designed to stall policy action, from slogans likening fossil‑gas‑renewable blends to a “peanut butter and jelly sandwich” to claims that “we see possibilities in planes that fly on garbage.” Employees report that senior managers framed the work as promoting “cleaner business models,” yet the ads largely served to normalise continued fossil‑fuel dependence.These practices appear to breach WPP’s own 2022 sustainability policy, which forbids projects that could “frustrate” the Paris Agreement. The exposure adds pressure on regulators and investors demanding transparent climate‑aligned advertising practices.What Lies Ahead for WPP and Industry RegulationWith new CEO Cindy Rose set to outline a turnaround strategy at the May 8 AGM, sustainability has not featured prominently in the previewed agenda. However, the report’s revelations could trigger:Heightened scrutiny from US congressional committees and European regulators.Potential shareholder resolutions demanding stricter green‑ad policies.Increased demand from climate‑focused investors for disclosure of fossil‑fuel ad contracts.If pressure mounts, WPP may need to overhaul its client‑vetting processes, adopt third‑party audit mechanisms, and publicly report ad spend linked to high‑emission industries to restore credibility.

Stella McCartney, a renowned luxury fashion designer known for her commitment to sustainability, has partnered with Swedish retail giant H&M; to launch a new eco-friendly clothing collection. The collaboration, set to hit stores in May, aims to make sustainable fashion more accessible to a wider audience. The collection includes a range of stylish pieces, such as a 'Rock Royalty' T-shirt (£37.99), a grey oversized pinstripe blazer (£259.99), and matching trousers (£139.99) made from wool that meets responsible wool standards. A vegan version of her iconic Falabella bag will also be available for £189.99, crafted from recycled polyamide to reduce dependence on fossil fuels. McCartney emphasized her desire to break down barriers in the fashion industry, stating, 'I hate how elitist the fashion industry is. I want a younger and wider audience to have access to my stuff.' The collection's focus on sustainability is reflected in its use of eco-friendly materials, such as beads made from 80% recycled glass and a python-effect jacket crafted from plastic derived from recycled vegetable oil and agricultural waste. While some critics have accused McCartney of 'greenwashing' by collaborating with a fast-fashion brand like H&M;, which produces 3 billion garments annually, McCartney defended her decision, saying it's better to 'infiltrate from within and have conversations with people who are like 'the devil' in a sense and then try to change them into a more conscious way of working.' This collaboration marks McCartney's second effort with H&M;, following a successful partnership 21 years ago. The collection's emphasis on transparency is evident in the swing tags on each piece, which will disclose the materials used. By working together, McCartney and H&M; aim to promote sustainable fashion practices and make eco-friendly clothing more mainstream.