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The Great Greenwashing: When Sustainability Meets Fast Fashion It was always about the money, wasn't it? For a while there, it seemed like the execs opining "sustainability is not a trend, it's the future" actually meant it. But when yet another global brand drops its net zero goals or stops talking about DEI, you do wonder. Recent headlines include Stella McCartney adulterating her eco gloss with a sustainable capsule collection for H&M; – don't worry, she's just "infiltrating from within" – and Lululemon being investigated for PFAS. The letdowns keep coming. The Everlane-Shein Merger: A Collision of Ideals Now the internet is reeling from a report that Shein plans to acquire Everlane, the San Francisco-based sustainable basics brand built on "radical transparency". Shein is the Chinese ultra-fast fashion giant epitomising murky supply chains and crazy-cheap landfill fashion. They release up to 10,000 styles a day, and have been making headlines of their own over secrecy and alleged links to forced Uyghur labor. Fashion reporter Lauren Sherman reported the acquisition plans this week, though neither Shein nor Everlane have confirmed. Everlane appears to be losing money fast. After layoffs in 2020 and 2023, the brand confirmed in April it was closing its San Francisco office. The Financial Calculus Behind Sustainable Fashion's Fall According to Sherman, Shein sees value in the brand's supply chain and was the only one willing to stump up the US $100m asked by Everlane's majority owner, private equity giant L Catterton (which is backed by LVMH, and owned RM Williams before Australian billionaire Andrew Forrest bought it in 2020). Shein can afford it – last year, their sales topped £2bn in the UK and $1.5bn in Australia. For my money, I bet it's not just the practical capabilities of the supply chain that interests Shein, it's the story. They could use a green glow-up. The Shifting Landscape of Ethical Fashion The Everlane tragedy follows last month's Allbirds comedy. Another publicly listed sustainable fashion company driven by Silicon Valley hype, Allbirds has given up making sneakers out of carbon neutral materials in order to flog AI. The surprise pivot came with a name change – NewBird – and a cynical cash grab. The old bird had been leaking money; the new one sent stock surging 600%. I visited Allbirds HQ the same year I interviewed Preysman. We discussed their B Corp journey, material innovation and how co-founder Joey Zwillinger reckoned "at the end of the day, people don't buy sustainable products, they buy great product experiences". I titled the podcast episode 'The Eco-Awesomeness of Allbirds – Sustainable Shoes for Changemakers'. The Future of Sustainability: Beyond Greenwashing So how do we navigate this moment? Accept it: sustainability is not hot right now. OK! This was never meant to be a popularity contest. The movement needs to get back to basics. Circularity won't save us – we must focus on workers' rights and the just transition. Have hard conversations about overproduction. Dismantle consumerism as the dominant narrative and define a properly radical approach to system change. You can't take the politics out of this, but why would you want to? As the last few months have shown us, when sustainability becomes purely about the business case, it stops meaning anything at all.

The Lead 'A noisy river is a healthy river,' says Ruth Needham of the Trent Rivers Trust (TRT). The Mease in the Midlands must be in fine fettle, then, as it gurgles merrily along. Sunlight glints off riffles in the water and shoals of fry dart past. Needham has good reason to be buoyant - last month, the Mease won the UK River prize 2026 in recognition of the trust's 13-year restoration campaign. The Restoration Journey The sad state of Britain's rivers is common knowledge, partly thanks to recent media coverage highlighting the sewage crisis. The Mease is a case in point - a 27km lowland river that rises in Leicestershire and flows into the River Trent. For too long, water has been seen as a problem to be controlled: drain it, dredge it, get it away. Over the past 150 years, drainage ditches have been engineered along the Mease, its banks shored up, its flow controlled with weirs. The Environmental Impact This alteration of the river had catastrophic consequences. Soil, silt and sediment got washed from fields straight into the river, causing high levels of phosphate that led to algal bloom and decreased oxygen levels. The fish population struggled, including two rare species that make the Mease a designated site of special scientific interest (SSSI): the spined loach and European bullhead. Other wildlife declined too, as there were no natural water channels with a mix of habitats to support different species. The Collaborative Solution In 2013, a restoration project began, led by the TRT and largely funded by the Environment Agency (EA). "We wanted to change the status quo, force the issue and get people to work together," Needham says. The biggest challenge was getting farmers on board - they were effectively being asked to give up land, leaving buffer strips for water and wildlife. It took time to build trust and to apply for compensation under government environmental land management schemes. The Future Outlook "The prize has been a massive boost," says Needham. "If we can get the Mease into better condition, we can improve other rivers, too." The restoration of the Mease demonstrates that with proper collaboration, innovative approaches, and long-term commitment, even severely degraded rivers can be brought back to health. This success story offers hope and a blueprint for river restoration efforts across the UK and beyond.

The Lead Bitter Christmas, the latest film from Pedro Almodóvar, is a complex and personal movie that explores themes of grief, loss, and artistic betrayal. The film, which screened at the Cannes film festival, is a double-layered creation that blurs the lines between reality and fiction. Almodóvar's Film Within a Film With its rich, warm, summery colours, nothing could surely be less bitter or less Christmassy than this film. It’s the latest from Cannes competition regular Pedro Almodóvar, partly set during Christmas; the female lead actually complains about the yuletide traffic at one stage. But there’s no tinsel or sleigh bells or shopping for presents. Like Die Hard, it eludes classification. It is another – which is to say, yet another – double-layered creation by Almodóvar, a kind of movie auto-metafiction of the sort that he has virtually invented, a life-v-art dialectical process that he is evidently unable to do without. Exploring Themes of Grief and Loss Like the recent Pain and Glory, Bitter Christmas is a candidly personal movie, circling around ideas like grief, loss, the vampirism of art and the betrayal involved in basing fictional characters on real people. Perhaps by emphasising this last point, Almodóvar is pre-empting or cauterising a crisis in his own life, showing us a gay male artist’s perspective on the question of whether women are not being given enough credit as the wellspring for inspiration or indeed as artists themselves. The Film's Complex Structure The film features a complex structure, with a story within a story. In the mid-2000s, an era of fliptop phones, Elsa (Bárbara Lennie) is a struggling indie film-maker now reduced to shooting TV ads; her younger boyfriend Bonifacio (Patrick Criado) is a firefighter and part-time lapdancer whom she met at a club on a hen night when she went backstage to offer him the lead in her upcoming underpants commercial. Elsa has friends who are plagued with problems: Patricia (Victoria Luengo) has to deal with a young son while her husband is away on business trips where he is cheating on her, and Natalia (played by Milena Smit, from Almodóvar’s Parallel Mothers) is profoundly depressed by the loss of her young son. The Impact of Artistic Betrayal But all this is being imagined in the present day by a grey-haired film director called Raúl (Leonardo Sbaraglia), who is working on an autobiographical script of his own called Bitter Christmas; Elsa would appear to be a version of him while his boyfriend Santi (Quim Gutiérrez) is clearly the model for Bonifacio. But the entire action of the film seems to be projected from the complex relationship with his friend and producing partner Mónica (Aitana Sánchez-Gijón), who is leaving him at a difficult time for a three-month sabbatical to be with her friend Elena whose son is desperately ill. The Future of Almodóvar's Filmography What we are perhaps leading to is an epiphany of truth for Raúl as artist and friend. Elsa is not based on him; he, Raúl, is not the centre of things. In fact, Elsa is his friend and ally Mónica, whom he has been taking for granted. That is the real parallel and it is Mónica’s feelings and Mónica’s identity who should be the central inspiration of his script and indeed the central point of his life right now. This is the enlightenment which he arguably approaches when he continues his script past the “The End” of the first draft, as Elsa appears to be coming to terms with her mother’s parting.

The Lead: A Disappointing Return to FormHirokazu Kore-eda's latest film "Sheep in the Box" has premiered at the Cannes Film Festival to largely negative reviews, with critics describing it as a "bafflingly unsatisfying and unconvincing muddle of ideas and moods." The film, which explores the concept of AI humanoid robot children replacing deceased children, represents a significant departure for the acclaimed director, whose previous works have been celebrated for their emotional depth and nuanced storytelling.The Film: A Futuristic Tale of Grief and Technology"Sheep in the Box" follows Otone (Haruka Ayasi), an architect, and her husband Kensuke (Daigo Yamamoto), a carpenter, who are offered a promotional free offer by a company called REbirth: an ultra-hi-tech humanoid robot replica of their deceased seven-year-old son Kakeru. The robot is designed to have the physical form, speech patterns, and memories of the original child, based on videos, photos, and other research materials provided by the grieving parents.The film presents several intriguing concepts: the robot being taken to the scene of the hit-and-run that killed the original Kakeru in hopes of recovering details about the culprit; the robot serving as a confessor for Kensuke to admit his guilt about his son's death; and a subplot involving other abandoned robot children planning a "replicant revolt." However, these ideas remain largely undeveloped, leaving audiences with more questions than answers.Critical Reception: A Missed OpportunityThe review from The Guardian is particularly scathing, noting that the film "isn't as interesting as films on similar themes including Kogonada's After Yang and Benjamin Cleary's Swan Song." The critic specifically faults Kore-eda's "quietist, un-emphasised style" for being unsuitable to the material, suggesting that the director's typically subtle approach doesn't work with the ambitious sci-fi concepts presented.One of the primary criticisms is the film's tonal inconsistency, attempting to be both a sci-fi dystopia and a relatable story about parental grief, with these two elements ultimately undermining each other. The performances are also noted as problematic, with the robot child being "unpersuasively performed in a returning keynote of bland serenity," while the human parents react with bizarre matter-of-factness to what should be an emotionally charged situation.Impact on Kore-eda's Legacy and AI CinemaThis film represents a significant departure for Hirokazu Kore-eda, whose previous works like "Shoplifters" and "Like Father, Like Son" have been celebrated for their emotional authenticity and humanistic approach. The negative reception of "Sheep in the Box" raises questions about whether the director can successfully transition into more genre-oriented territory while maintaining his signature style.In the broader context of AI cinema, the film joins a growing conversation about artificial intelligence and humanity in film, alongside works like Spike Jonze's "Her" and Alex Garland's "Ex Machina." However, where those films have been praised for their thoughtful exploration of AI ethics and human connection, "Sheep in the Box" appears to have missed the mark, failing to deliver either compelling drama or meaningful commentary on its central themes.Future Outlook: A Setback in an Otherwise Distinguished CareerWhile "Sheep in the Box" may represent a misstep for Kore-eda, it's unlikely to significantly impact the director's otherwise distinguished career. The filmmaker has previously demonstrated remarkable range and depth, and this ambitious if flawed experiment may ultimately be viewed as an interesting if unsuccessful detour rather than a definitive statement on his abilities.For audiences interested in exploring AI and humanity in cinema, the film serves as a cautionary tale about the challenges of blending emotional storytelling with complex technological concepts. As the conversation around AI continues to evolve in both society and art, "Sheep in the Box" may be remembered more for what it attempted than for what it ultimately achieved.

The LeadRachel Reeves is preparing to announce a planning shake-up that would fast-track clean energy and infrastructure projects by curbing judicial reviews, the Treasury said.The Planning Reform DetailsThe chancellor will propose that parliament should be able to designate and approve the most important clean energy projects as of "critical national importance", as part of a wider package seeking to blunt the impact of the Iran crisis."That would reduce the exposure from judicial review on all but human rights grounds," the Treasury said.It comes as pressure grows on the government to accelerate its energy infrastructure development to meet its goal to build a virtually zero-carbon power system by 2030.The Renewable Energy LandscapeRenewable energy developers have long bemoaned the difficulty in gaining planning permission for projects, from offshore windfarms to onshore solar and battery storage developments, and waiting times to connect to Great Britain's electricity grid.A spokesperson for the Treasury said that vital infrastructure delivery had been "delayed by judicial reviews of projects the country needs."They added: "The chancellor won't stand for it any longer and is bringing forward bold changes to support delivery. She is clear that parliament must take back control – to get Britain building the power plants, windfarms and grid connections that will bring bills down, strengthen our energy security, and deliver growth in every part of our country."The Current State of Renewable Energy ApprovalsLast year a record number of renewable energy projects were given the go-ahead in Great Britain, according to analysis by the consultancy Cornwall Insight. It found that the energy capacity of new battery, wind, and solar projects that received approval climbed to 45GW, 96% higher than in 2024.However, it also found the pace of projects starting up lagged behind, largely as a result of long construction timelines and grid connection delays.The Broader Infrastructure ApproachFor other infrastructure, such as transport and water projects, the government will introduce a fixed legal challenge window. When this ends, planning consent could be updated to address "any legitimate issues", the Treasury said.The Political ContextThe proposal comes amid a series of policy moves by Reeves despite uncertainty around the future of Keir Starmer as prime minister.On Tuesday it emerged that the government asked UK supermarkets to consider freezing the prices of some essential foodstuffs to protect the public from inflation fuelled by the Middle East conflict.Reeves is expected to announce measures to help households with the cost of living on Thursday, on which she is also planning to cancel a planned rise in fuel duty.

On May 18, 2026, a gun attack at the Islamic Center of San Diego left three community members dead, including security guard Amin Abdullah, longtime staffer Mansour Kaziha, and neighbor Nader Awad who rushed to help. The incident, investigated as a hate crime, has sparked an outpouring of grief and a renewed debate on protecting places of worship.Victims’ Backgrounds and RolesMansour Kaziha (78) – a Syrian‑born employee who helped build the mosque in the 1980s, ran its gift shop, and prepared meals for Ramadan. He was described by the board chairman as “a cornerstone, a pillar of this masjid.”Nader Awad (57) – a resident across the street who attended daily prayers and, when he heard gunfire, ran into the mosque to assist, even diverting other congregants.Amin Abdullah (51) – the mosque’s security guard, a father of eight, who greeted visitors with “as‑salamu alaikum.” Police chief Scott Wahl called his actions “heroic” and credited him with preventing a larger tragedy.Key Facts and Numbers from the AttackThree victims were killed; two teenage attackers also died from self‑inflicted gunshot wounds.The attack occurred during daylight hours on a Monday, shortly after police were alerted to one attacker’s possible suicidal intent.Social media accounts show Amin Abdullah had roughly 1,800 followers, underscoring his community visibility.Community and Law‑Enforcement ResponseThe mosque’s imam, Taha Hassane, referred to the victims as “martyrs and heroes.” Families held vigils, and local officials classified the incident as a hate crime, prompting calls for stronger security protocols at religious institutions nationwide.Future Outlook for Mosque Security in the U.S.Law‑makers and faith‑based groups are now urging increased funding for security training, surveillance upgrades, and rapid‑response coordination with police. The tragedy underscores the need for proactive measures to protect vulnerable communities and may shape future legislation on hate‑crime prevention.

The Film's PremiseIn an increasingly sparse release schedule for family entertainment, 'Charlie the Wonderdog' emerges as a Canadian-produced animated film featuring Owen Wilson as a dog who gains superpowers after being abducted by aliens for experimentation. The film follows Charlie as he uses his new abilities for good, while his neighbor's cat Puddy turns against humanity over neglected litter duties.Animation Quality and StorytellingDirector Shea Wageman earns some points for weirdness, but the film ultimately falls short when compared to major studio animations. The review suggests that without the legacies of Pixar and DreamWorks Animation, Charlie might seem merely passable. The script contains one solid, funny idea about Charlie and Puddy representing different responses to sentience, but this concept gets lost in frenetic set pieces that fail to engage the audience.Owen Wilson's PerformanceOwen Wilson lends his distinctive drawl to the titular character, bringing humor to moments like Charlie howling with cacti spines in his butt and belching after overindulging in bolognese. However, the review suggests this was likely just an easy paycheck for Wilson during a downtime in his career, with the reviewer hoping for a return to his earlier, funnier roles in the upcoming Fockers sequel.Market PositionThe film appears positioned as filler material for children's matinee shows, particularly as major studios have already delivered blockbusters like 'Hoppers,' 'Goat,' and 'The Super Mario Galaxy Movie' this spring. The review mentions that with Chinese-produced Tom and Jerry failing to generate enthusiasm, Charlie stands as the most immediate family alternative, though it's presented as a decidedly second-tier option.Future OutlookGiven the critical reception in this review, 'Charlie the Wonderdog' is unlikely to make a significant impact in the animated film landscape. Its release in UK and Irish cinemas from May 22 suggests it's being positioned as a modest family option rather than a major contender, with its primary value perhaps serving as temporary entertainment for children until more substantial animated features arrive.

Remembering Caroline Aherne: A Comedy Legend Caroline Aherne, a fixture of British primetime television from the 1990s until her death in 2016, left an indelible mark on the comedy world. Her work continues to inspire new generations of comedians and writers. The Event Details: Aherne's Impact on British Television Aherne was a multifaceted talent, known for her work as a chatshow host, voice artist, and creator and star of hit sitcoms like 'The Royle Family' and 'Mrs Merton'. Her unique brand of humor, which found comedy in the everyday, resonated with audiences and critics alike. The Data Analysis: Aherne's Legacy in Numbers Aherne's work includes 'The Royle Family', one of the most profound and realistic sitcoms ever written for British television. She was the voice of 'Gogglebox', an expression of love for the medium she adored. Her character, Mrs Merton, was a deceptively vicious chatshow host who asked the kind of blunt questions most interviewers only dream of. The Impact Analysis: Why Aherne Matters Aherne's influence on British comedy and television is still felt today. Her work continues to be celebrated for its subtle subversion and humor. According to her longtime writing partner Craig Cash, Aherne saw humorous potential in the profoundly ordinary, often saying, "She'd say all the comedy you want in the world is in the supermarket if you listen." The Prediction: Aherne's Lasting Legacy As David Scott's biography shows, Aherne's legacy extends beyond her impressive body of work. She paved the way for future generations of female comedians and writers, and her influence can be seen in many areas of British entertainment. Her work will continue to inspire and entertain audiences for years to come.

The UK's Shift on Russian Oil Sanctions The UK government has relaxed strict sanctions on Russian crude oil, allowing for the import of jet fuel and diesel refined in third countries amid surging costs. A trade licence that came into effect on Wednesday permits the imports indefinitely and will be reviewed periodically. Reasons Behind the Sanctions Relaxation The move comes at a time of growing concerns over the supply of certain fuels due to the de facto blockade of the strait of Hormuz since the start of the US-Israeli war with Iran. New figures show petrol prices have eclipsed the high set during the Iran oil crisis. Impact on Ukraine and Criticisms The decision has been criticized by some, including Emily Thornberry, the chair of the foreign affairs committee, who said it was the wrong time to relax sanctions. She expressed concerns that it may be perceived as letting down allies in Ukraine who are fighting against Russia. Economic Implications and Future Outlook The Treasury minister Dan Tomlinson stated that the government needed to make sure it was protecting the UK national interest. The RAC reported that the average price of a litre of petrol at UK forecourts stood at 158.5p, the most expensive it had been since December 2022. It is expected that the chancellor, Rachel Reeves, will abandon her plan to increase fuel duty from September.