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The Great Greenwashing: When Sustainability Meets Fast Fashion It was always about the money, wasn't it? For a while there, it seemed like the execs opining "sustainability is not a trend, it's the future" actually meant it. But when yet another global brand drops its net zero goals or stops talking about DEI, you do wonder. Recent headlines include Stella McCartney adulterating her eco gloss with a sustainable capsule collection for H&M; – don't worry, she's just "infiltrating from within" – and Lululemon being investigated for PFAS. The letdowns keep coming. The Everlane-Shein Merger: A Collision of Ideals Now the internet is reeling from a report that Shein plans to acquire Everlane, the San Francisco-based sustainable basics brand built on "radical transparency". Shein is the Chinese ultra-fast fashion giant epitomising murky supply chains and crazy-cheap landfill fashion. They release up to 10,000 styles a day, and have been making headlines of their own over secrecy and alleged links to forced Uyghur labor. Fashion reporter Lauren Sherman reported the acquisition plans this week, though neither Shein nor Everlane have confirmed. Everlane appears to be losing money fast. After layoffs in 2020 and 2023, the brand confirmed in April it was closing its San Francisco office. The Financial Calculus Behind Sustainable Fashion's Fall According to Sherman, Shein sees value in the brand's supply chain and was the only one willing to stump up the US $100m asked by Everlane's majority owner, private equity giant L Catterton (which is backed by LVMH, and owned RM Williams before Australian billionaire Andrew Forrest bought it in 2020). Shein can afford it – last year, their sales topped £2bn in the UK and $1.5bn in Australia. For my money, I bet it's not just the practical capabilities of the supply chain that interests Shein, it's the story. They could use a green glow-up. The Shifting Landscape of Ethical Fashion The Everlane tragedy follows last month's Allbirds comedy. Another publicly listed sustainable fashion company driven by Silicon Valley hype, Allbirds has given up making sneakers out of carbon neutral materials in order to flog AI. The surprise pivot came with a name change – NewBird – and a cynical cash grab. The old bird had been leaking money; the new one sent stock surging 600%. I visited Allbirds HQ the same year I interviewed Preysman. We discussed their B Corp journey, material innovation and how co-founder Joey Zwillinger reckoned "at the end of the day, people don't buy sustainable products, they buy great product experiences". I titled the podcast episode 'The Eco-Awesomeness of Allbirds – Sustainable Shoes for Changemakers'. The Future of Sustainability: Beyond Greenwashing So how do we navigate this moment? Accept it: sustainability is not hot right now. OK! This was never meant to be a popularity contest. The movement needs to get back to basics. Circularity won't save us – we must focus on workers' rights and the just transition. Have hard conversations about overproduction. Dismantle consumerism as the dominant narrative and define a properly radical approach to system change. You can't take the politics out of this, but why would you want to? As the last few months have shown us, when sustainability becomes purely about the business case, it stops meaning anything at all.

The Lead Bitter Christmas, the latest film from Pedro Almodóvar, is a complex and personal movie that explores themes of grief, loss, and artistic betrayal. The film, which screened at the Cannes film festival, is a double-layered creation that blurs the lines between reality and fiction. Almodóvar's Film Within a Film With its rich, warm, summery colours, nothing could surely be less bitter or less Christmassy than this film. It’s the latest from Cannes competition regular Pedro Almodóvar, partly set during Christmas; the female lead actually complains about the yuletide traffic at one stage. But there’s no tinsel or sleigh bells or shopping for presents. Like Die Hard, it eludes classification. It is another – which is to say, yet another – double-layered creation by Almodóvar, a kind of movie auto-metafiction of the sort that he has virtually invented, a life-v-art dialectical process that he is evidently unable to do without. Exploring Themes of Grief and Loss Like the recent Pain and Glory, Bitter Christmas is a candidly personal movie, circling around ideas like grief, loss, the vampirism of art and the betrayal involved in basing fictional characters on real people. Perhaps by emphasising this last point, Almodóvar is pre-empting or cauterising a crisis in his own life, showing us a gay male artist’s perspective on the question of whether women are not being given enough credit as the wellspring for inspiration or indeed as artists themselves. The Film's Complex Structure The film features a complex structure, with a story within a story. In the mid-2000s, an era of fliptop phones, Elsa (Bárbara Lennie) is a struggling indie film-maker now reduced to shooting TV ads; her younger boyfriend Bonifacio (Patrick Criado) is a firefighter and part-time lapdancer whom she met at a club on a hen night when she went backstage to offer him the lead in her upcoming underpants commercial. Elsa has friends who are plagued with problems: Patricia (Victoria Luengo) has to deal with a young son while her husband is away on business trips where he is cheating on her, and Natalia (played by Milena Smit, from Almodóvar’s Parallel Mothers) is profoundly depressed by the loss of her young son. The Impact of Artistic Betrayal But all this is being imagined in the present day by a grey-haired film director called Raúl (Leonardo Sbaraglia), who is working on an autobiographical script of his own called Bitter Christmas; Elsa would appear to be a version of him while his boyfriend Santi (Quim Gutiérrez) is clearly the model for Bonifacio. But the entire action of the film seems to be projected from the complex relationship with his friend and producing partner Mónica (Aitana Sánchez-Gijón), who is leaving him at a difficult time for a three-month sabbatical to be with her friend Elena whose son is desperately ill. The Future of Almodóvar's Filmography What we are perhaps leading to is an epiphany of truth for Raúl as artist and friend. Elsa is not based on him; he, Raúl, is not the centre of things. In fact, Elsa is his friend and ally Mónica, whom he has been taking for granted. That is the real parallel and it is Mónica’s feelings and Mónica’s identity who should be the central inspiration of his script and indeed the central point of his life right now. This is the enlightenment which he arguably approaches when he continues his script past the “The End” of the first draft, as Elsa appears to be coming to terms with her mother’s parting.

The LeadRachel Reeves is preparing to announce a planning shake-up that would fast-track clean energy and infrastructure projects by curbing judicial reviews, the Treasury said.The Planning Reform DetailsThe chancellor will propose that parliament should be able to designate and approve the most important clean energy projects as of "critical national importance", as part of a wider package seeking to blunt the impact of the Iran crisis."That would reduce the exposure from judicial review on all but human rights grounds," the Treasury said.It comes as pressure grows on the government to accelerate its energy infrastructure development to meet its goal to build a virtually zero-carbon power system by 2030.The Renewable Energy LandscapeRenewable energy developers have long bemoaned the difficulty in gaining planning permission for projects, from offshore windfarms to onshore solar and battery storage developments, and waiting times to connect to Great Britain's electricity grid.A spokesperson for the Treasury said that vital infrastructure delivery had been "delayed by judicial reviews of projects the country needs."They added: "The chancellor won't stand for it any longer and is bringing forward bold changes to support delivery. She is clear that parliament must take back control – to get Britain building the power plants, windfarms and grid connections that will bring bills down, strengthen our energy security, and deliver growth in every part of our country."The Current State of Renewable Energy ApprovalsLast year a record number of renewable energy projects were given the go-ahead in Great Britain, according to analysis by the consultancy Cornwall Insight. It found that the energy capacity of new battery, wind, and solar projects that received approval climbed to 45GW, 96% higher than in 2024.However, it also found the pace of projects starting up lagged behind, largely as a result of long construction timelines and grid connection delays.The Broader Infrastructure ApproachFor other infrastructure, such as transport and water projects, the government will introduce a fixed legal challenge window. When this ends, planning consent could be updated to address "any legitimate issues", the Treasury said.The Political ContextThe proposal comes amid a series of policy moves by Reeves despite uncertainty around the future of Keir Starmer as prime minister.On Tuesday it emerged that the government asked UK supermarkets to consider freezing the prices of some essential foodstuffs to protect the public from inflation fuelled by the Middle East conflict.Reeves is expected to announce measures to help households with the cost of living on Thursday, on which she is also planning to cancel a planned rise in fuel duty.

The Film's Wartime ContextLife during wartime is the central theme of Andrei Zvyagintsev's latest film, 'Minotaur.' Set in provincial Russia, the movie presents a portrait of a nation paralyzed with disillusionment and fear, slowly coming to terms with, or retreating into collective denial about, the terrible mistake in Ukraine. The film draws inspiration from Claude Chabrol's 'La Femme Infidèle' (1969), Gogol's 'Dead Souls,' and the Greek myth of the Minotaur requiring 14 sacrifices.At its core, 'Minotaur' is a noir thriller of infidelity and vengeful murder, given new meaning by the context of deadly cynicism and political bad faith. It depicts a world in which powerful people, consumed by self-hate, have made covering up misdeeds their way of life.The Narrative of DisillusionmentThe story follows Gleb, a mini-oligarch businessman played by Dmitriy Mazurov, who lives in a town far from Moscow with his elegant but unhappy wife Galina (Iris Lebedeva) and their teen son. The setting is marked by the presence of the letter Z on car windshields and military trains, symbolizing support for the war effort.Gleb's marriage has been damaged by his past infidelities, and now he suspects his wife of cheating. However, more pressing matters emerge when local business leaders are summoned by the mayor (whose office displays a photo of Putin) and instructed to provide disposable male employees for the war effort.The Director's VisionZvyagintsev, who survived a severe bout of COVID-19 that caused 90% lung damage according to a related Guardian article, delivers a film with cold daylit compositions and scenes in grim streets and housing estates. Everything in the film looks like a crime scene, reflecting the moral decay at its center.The performances from Mazurov and Lebedeva are outstanding, particularly in the film's central extended silent sequence. Zvyagintsev masterfully portrays the chilling moral compromises made by characters who have normalized violence and deception as survival mechanisms in a corrupt system.Cultural and Political Commentary'Minotaur' functions as both personal drama and societal critique. When Gleb must provide 14 employees for the war, he calculates that he can advertise for 14 truck drivers with inflated salaries, knowing they'll be drafted before he ever has to pay them. This scheme represents the soul-blackening evil of a system that treats human lives as disposable commodities.The film also explores toxic masculinity through a scene where Gleb teaches his bullied son to threaten violence rather than seek help from authorities. This moment reveals the poisonous education in violence that perpetuates cycles of aggression and dehumanization.Festival Reception and SignificanceScreened at the prestigious Cannes film festival, 'Minotaur' continues Zvyagintsev's tradition of creating politically charged cinema that holds up a mirror to contemporary Russian society. The film's exploration of moral compromise in wartime positions it as a significant cultural document of Russia's current social and political climate.As Russia's war in Ukraine continues, 'Minotaur' serves as both artistic expression and implicit commentary on the psychological and moral costs of a nation at war with itself and its neighbors. The film's noir elements are amplified by the real-world context of deception, cover-ups, and the sacrifice of ordinary people for political agendas.

On May 18, 2026, a gun attack at the Islamic Center of San Diego left three community members dead, including security guard Amin Abdullah, longtime staffer Mansour Kaziha, and neighbor Nader Awad who rushed to help. The incident, investigated as a hate crime, has sparked an outpouring of grief and a renewed debate on protecting places of worship.Victims’ Backgrounds and RolesMansour Kaziha (78) – a Syrian‑born employee who helped build the mosque in the 1980s, ran its gift shop, and prepared meals for Ramadan. He was described by the board chairman as “a cornerstone, a pillar of this masjid.”Nader Awad (57) – a resident across the street who attended daily prayers and, when he heard gunfire, ran into the mosque to assist, even diverting other congregants.Amin Abdullah (51) – the mosque’s security guard, a father of eight, who greeted visitors with “as‑salamu alaikum.” Police chief Scott Wahl called his actions “heroic” and credited him with preventing a larger tragedy.Key Facts and Numbers from the AttackThree victims were killed; two teenage attackers also died from self‑inflicted gunshot wounds.The attack occurred during daylight hours on a Monday, shortly after police were alerted to one attacker’s possible suicidal intent.Social media accounts show Amin Abdullah had roughly 1,800 followers, underscoring his community visibility.Community and Law‑Enforcement ResponseThe mosque’s imam, Taha Hassane, referred to the victims as “martyrs and heroes.” Families held vigils, and local officials classified the incident as a hate crime, prompting calls for stronger security protocols at religious institutions nationwide.Future Outlook for Mosque Security in the U.S.Law‑makers and faith‑based groups are now urging increased funding for security training, surveillance upgrades, and rapid‑response coordination with police. The tragedy underscores the need for proactive measures to protect vulnerable communities and may shape future legislation on hate‑crime prevention.

The Film's Poignant Portrayal With warmth and heartfelt passion, and a quintet of outstanding performances from young actors shot in looming closeup for so much of the time, Clio Barnard has created an absorbing and moving social-realist picture. It’s a film whose mix of poignancy, defiance and contaminated euphoria stayed with me hours after the closing credits. The Event Details The film is about five young people from Birmingham who grew up together, reaching the end of their 20s, sensing a looming crisis and on the verge of a tragedy that is mysteriously growing from within their own increasing disparity. It is adapted by screenwriter Enda Walsh from the novel of the same name by Kieran Goddard. The Characters' Struggles We are introduced to our five musketeers at a boozy and weed-and-coke fuelled birthday party where the good times are laced with a suspicion that the party is actually now over. First among equals is Rian, played by Joe Cole, the one from their friend-group who has made something of himself. Using an inheritance from his late father, Rian hit the jackpot dealing in stock warrants online and while his mates are living modestly or in squalor, he has now bought a chilly and soulless designer flat in London. The Impact of Capitalism The film suggests that building and housing are a mythic centre to their five lives. It’s the centre also of a revived debate: is housing a social right or a maturing capital asset and loan security for the well-off? The demolition of Birmingham’s brutalist tower blocks when they were kids was a spectacular, formative event. The Future Outlook This is such a sad, sweet film, finally laced with sobriety and hope. The divisions between Rian and Patrick and Patrick and Shiv might not have opened up the way they did, but then Oli’s life would not have turned around either.

The Film's PremiseIn an increasingly sparse release schedule for family entertainment, 'Charlie the Wonderdog' emerges as a Canadian-produced animated film featuring Owen Wilson as a dog who gains superpowers after being abducted by aliens for experimentation. The film follows Charlie as he uses his new abilities for good, while his neighbor's cat Puddy turns against humanity over neglected litter duties.Animation Quality and StorytellingDirector Shea Wageman earns some points for weirdness, but the film ultimately falls short when compared to major studio animations. The review suggests that without the legacies of Pixar and DreamWorks Animation, Charlie might seem merely passable. The script contains one solid, funny idea about Charlie and Puddy representing different responses to sentience, but this concept gets lost in frenetic set pieces that fail to engage the audience.Owen Wilson's PerformanceOwen Wilson lends his distinctive drawl to the titular character, bringing humor to moments like Charlie howling with cacti spines in his butt and belching after overindulging in bolognese. However, the review suggests this was likely just an easy paycheck for Wilson during a downtime in his career, with the reviewer hoping for a return to his earlier, funnier roles in the upcoming Fockers sequel.Market PositionThe film appears positioned as filler material for children's matinee shows, particularly as major studios have already delivered blockbusters like 'Hoppers,' 'Goat,' and 'The Super Mario Galaxy Movie' this spring. The review mentions that with Chinese-produced Tom and Jerry failing to generate enthusiasm, Charlie stands as the most immediate family alternative, though it's presented as a decidedly second-tier option.Future OutlookGiven the critical reception in this review, 'Charlie the Wonderdog' is unlikely to make a significant impact in the animated film landscape. Its release in UK and Irish cinemas from May 22 suggests it's being positioned as a modest family option rather than a major contender, with its primary value perhaps serving as temporary entertainment for children until more substantial animated features arrive.

The Long-Awaited TriumphA jubilant Bukayo Saka hit back at Arsenal's critics by saying "they're not laughing at us any more" as the club celebrated their first Premier League title in 22 years. Arsenal players and staff gathered at their London Colney training base to watch Manchester City draw 1-1 with Bournemouth, guaranteeing the Gunners their first championship since 2004.The Road to VictoryThere were wild scenes at Arsenal's training ground, and outside the Emirates Stadium, where thousands of supporters gathered to toast the club's success by lighting fireworks and flares. Ian Wright, who scored 185 times for Arsenal and won the title in 1998, was mobbed by fans as he joined in on the party outside the club's ground.Overcoming DoubtsArsenal, runners-up in the league for the previous three seasons, faced accusations of "bottling" their trophy push after they lost at City on 19 April. But while City subsequently drew at Everton and Bournemouth, Arsenal bounced back by winning their next four without conceding to finish top.Arteta's Vision RealizedMikel Arteta, who rejoined Arsenal as manager in December 2019 with the club in disarray, installed a blacked-out Premier League trophy at the training base which would light up only when the club were champions.Players' Response to Critics"Light that up," Saka said in footage posted by Jurriën Timber on his Instagram account. "Let me tell you something. Twenty-two years, 22 years. There was laughing, there was joking, they're not laughing any more. Look, it is going to be shining, it is going to be shining bright."In an Instagram story, this time on Saka's channel, Myles Lewis-Skelly is holding a champagne bottle. "They called us bottlers," said Lewis-Skelly. "And now we're holding the bottle."The Celebration ContinuesSome of the players took their celebration party to the Emirates, with Eberechi Eze posting a picture outside the stadium alongside Declan Rice, Timber and Saka, in the early hours of Wednesday. Eze's three Instagram slides also included a picture of an Arsenal-branded bottle in another jibe at the club's detractors.

Nicolas Winding Refn broke down during the Cannes Film Festival, recounting a near‑death experience in 2023 when a leaking heart caused him to “die for 25 minutes.” The revelation came as he promoted his first film in a decade, Her Private Hell, and highlighted how the ordeal reshaped his artistic outlook.Refn’s Emotional Disclosure of a 25‑Minute Death at CannesSpeaking to journalists on May 20, 2026, the Danish director described how his lungs filled with blood and doctors warned he might not survive. He joked that “the surgeon was Tom Cruise,” emphasizing the surreal nature of his recovery.Personal Health Timeline and Surgical Intervention2023: Sudden cardiac leak discovered by accident.Immediate symptoms: blood‑filled lungs, 25‑minute clinical death.Two weeks later: Emergency heart surgery performed.Implications for Refn’s Career and Cannes NarrativeThe director said the experience gave him “a second chance” and prompted a shift from feeling “at the end of my career” to a renewed drive to make films. His comments echo a recent Screen International interview where he likened his revival to “Frankenstein.”What This Means for Future Projects and Festival DynamicsRefn’s candidness may influence how Cannes showcases personal comeback stories, joining the return of director Andréï Zvyagintsev, who also screened a new film after severe health challenges. Audiences and programmers might anticipate more narratives centered on resilience and artistic rebirth.