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A Journey to Pristine Marine WildernessDarwin and Wolf Islands in the Galápagos archipelago represent a once-in-a-lifetime destination for scuba divers and marine biologists. The author, who had previously written a children's book imagining such an expedition, had the extraordinary opportunity to join a real scientific mission to these remote, uninhabited islands located approximately 1,000km off the coast of Ecuador. This firsthand account reveals the breathtaking underwater wonders and critical conservation work happening in this pristine marine environment.The Scientific Expedition to Darwin and WolfIn March, the author became the first reporter invited to join the Charles Darwin Foundation's team, which visits these special islands twice each year. For two weeks, they lived aboard a 22-meter diving yacht with 12 scientists and crew. The expedition involved scuba diving, freediving, and working from inflatable boats to document the rich marine ecosystem. The team observed green sea turtles, sea lions, and various bird species, while focusing on documenting the migrations of scalloped hammerhead sharks—a critically endangered species that aggregates in huge numbers at these islands.Monitoring Marine Life Through Scientific Data CollectionThe research team employs systematic methods to monitor the marine ecosystem. They spend days motoring around the islands, lowering waterproof cameras into the sea and retrieving them hours later. Scuba divers push cameras along horizontal paths underwater to capture footage. Ecuadorian marine biologist Katherine Rezabala analyzes the video footage, counting, identifying, and measuring every fish that swims by. Over two years, she has learned to recognize more than 50 species of teleosts (bony fish). This long-term monitoring, though less glamorous than satellite tagging sharks, provides crucial data for understanding how this ocean region is changing over time.The Significance of the Galápagos Marine EcosystemThe Galápagos islands naturally experience turbulent conditions with mingling currents of cold and warm water, creating a unique habitat that supports extraordinary biodiversity. The region serves as a critical aggregation site for scalloped hammerhead sharks, where pregnant females swim more than 1,000km from the Galápagos back to the mainland to give birth in the mangrove forests of Panama. The research conducted here provides valuable insights into marine ecosystem health and the impacts of environmental changes on ocean life. The Charles Darwin Foundation's work helps establish baseline data essential for conservation efforts in the face of increasing environmental pressures.Climate Challenges and Future ResearchThe Galápagos faces significant environmental challenges, particularly with the anticipated return of El Niño this year—the fourth major event since the 1980s. This weather phenomenon will diminish the cold, upwelling currents that normally bring vital nutrients to the area, potentially killing off swathes of ocean life. The Charles Darwin Foundation team plans to return to Darwin and Wolf Islands in September to assess how the hammerhead sharks and other marine species have weathered these changing conditions. This ongoing research will be crucial for understanding and adapting to the impacts of climate change on one of the world's most unique marine ecosystems.

The Galápagos: A Shark Sanctuary Under Threat The unmistakable fluted T-shape of a scalloped hammerhead shark slides by, followed by a diver holding his breath and a metal spear like an extra-long snooker cue. The spear hits the fish behind its dorsal fin and the 2-metre shark darts away, disgruntled but otherwise unharmed. This scene, captured by researchers from the Charles Darwin Foundation, represents one of the most important conservation efforts for a species that has declined by at least 80% globally due to overfishing. Innovative Research Methods in Shark Conservation Carlos Robalino, a marine biologist from the Galápagos Islands, is part of the foundation's research expedition to Darwin and Wolf, the most northerly islands in the Galápagos marine reserve. For three or four hours each morning and afternoon, Robalino is in the sea, honing his freediving skills so he can get close enough to the sharks to take samples of their skin. "Scalloped hammerheads are super-sensitive, very nervous," says Simon McKinley, an ecologist with the dive team. "The trick is to wait for the shark to pass by under me to the point where they can't possibly see me above them. Then I can dive down." The Unprecedented Abundance of Hammerheads in Galápagos Despite being critically endangered globally, the Galápagos hosts an extraordinary population of scalloped hammerheads. On most dives during the research trip, dozens of the sharks swim by. Later in the year, in the cold season when there is more food in the seas around Darwin and Wolf, more sharks migrate to the archipelago and the population quadruples. At its peak, about 150 lion-sized scalloped hammerheads roam each hectare of sea – roughly the area of London's Trafalgar Square. There can be so many they blot out the sun. Challenges in Protecting a Globally Endangered Species Despite their local abundance, studying scalloped hammerheads in Galápagos is not easy. Researchers cannot catch these sensitive sharks because the stress of being handled could kill them. The foundation team has developed less invasive techniques, including deploying underwater cameras to monitor shark numbers. Chemical analysis of skin biopsies shows, among other things, what the sharks are eating without needing to cut open their stomachs to see the contents. However, challenges remain: "Baby hammerheads, and even females when they go to give birth, are being caught... sold and consumed as ceviche," according to Pelayo Salinas de León. Tracking Shark Migrations Across the Pacific The research team is tracking where these sharks go after leaving Galápagos. Scalloped hammerheads are not resident here but set off on long migrations, and to learn about this part of their lives requires specialized diving techniques. Pelayo Salinas de León uses a closed-circuit rebreather, a device which recycles his exhalations, removes carbon dioxide and adds more oxygen as needed, so he can dive for hours in bubble-free tranquillity without scaring off the hammerheads. He attaches satellite transmitter tags worth close to $2,000 to track their movements across the Pacific Ocean. Future Conservation Challenges in a Changing Climate From twice-yearly visits to Darwin and Wolf, the team is building a long-term picture of the sharks' lives and how they are responding to changing conditions, including the heatwaves linked to El Niño, such as the big one forecast for 2026. These climate events could significantly impact the delicate marine ecosystem that supports the hammerhead population. The research being conducted in the Galápagos provides crucial data that will help conservationists develop strategies to protect these magnificent creatures both within the marine reserve and along their extensive migration routes.