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The Acquisition Deal Eco-friendly retailer Everlane, known for its commitment to sustainable and affordable clothing, is being acquired by Chinese fast-fashion giant Shein. A letter to Everlane employees from CEO Alfred Chang confirmed the deal, although the purchase price was not disclosed. Everlane's Background and Challenges Everlane was founded in 2011 by Michael Preysman and Jesse Farmer with a mission to produce eco-friendly and affordable clothing. Despite its efforts to promote sustainability, the company has faced controversies surrounding worker treatment and struggled with declining sales and mounting debt. The Impact on Everlane's Operations Everlane will remain an independent brand, staying true to its sustainability commitments. CEO Alfred Chang will continue in his role, and the leadership team will remain in place. The deal is expected to provide financial stability and resources for Everlane to invest in product innovation and staff. Strategic Implications for Shein The acquisition allows Shein to establish a presence outside of fast fashion, which has become increasingly challenging due to tariffs and trade restrictions. However, the partnership may be perceived as conflicting with Everlane's eco-friendly values, potentially impacting customer loyalty. Future Outlook The acquisition is seen as a strategic move to save Everlane from financial struggles, but it also comes with challenges. As Shein integrates Everlane into its portfolio, the success of this partnership will depend on balancing business growth with sustainability commitments.

The Disco Legend Returns to the SpotlightLost in Music, He's the Greatest Dancer, Thinking of You and We Are Family – many artists would long for just one of these songs at any time in their career, but for Sister Sledge they all appeared on a single side of one of their albums. As she brings these and the rest of the disco group's still-sensational catalogue to the Electric Paradise festival this summer, Kathy Sledge will be joining us to answer your questions.The Rise of Sister SledgeKathy is one of four Sledge sisters along with Debbie, Joni and Kim, who formed the group as children in the mid-1960s, picking up gigs at churches and local events in their home city of Philadelphia as the Sledge Sisters. After flipping the name around, they got a record deal and their first chart success came in the UK in 1973, with the Top 20 hit Mama Never Told Me.The Chic Collaboration That Defined an EraFurther commercial success eluded them for a few years – though that's no reflection on the quality of early disco material such as Pain Reliever – until their label paired them with Chic's Nile Rodgers and Bernard Edwards. Sister Sledge's poise and charisma shone from the aforementioned hits the pair wrote for them, collected on the album We Are Family. The title track reached No 2 in the US and it, along with the others, endure as pinnacles of the disco era.Chart Success Through the DecadesRemixed versions of those songs came back around in 1984 and 1993, each to great success particularly in the UK, though the group's only UK No 1 single was in a very different style in 1985, with the swaying neo-60s pop of Frankie.A Solo Career and Continued PerformancesKathy took the lead vocal on some of their biggest hits, and after Sister Sledge went on hiatus in 1987, she had a solo career interspersed with occasional Sister Sledge reunions, and later – amid some legal wrangles with her sisters – solo tours of Sister Sledge material. Next up she'll perform at Electric Paradise in Milton Keynes, on 8 August, alongside other legends of the era such as Grace Jones, Candi Staton, Kool and the Gang and more.Your Questions for the Disco IconNow 67, Kathy has been in countless nightclubs and recording studios around the world across her multi-decade career, so there's plenty to ask her. Post your questions in the comments below before 6pm GMT on Wednesday, and we'll publish her answers later in the week.

The Arrest That Sparked International ConcernThe operation began at 9am Moscow time, but took place across all of Russia's 11 time zones. Almost simultaneously, agents of the federal security service (FSB) raided the homes and workplaces of 17 Indigenous rights activists. Officers carried out searches, confiscated laptops and phones, and arrested and interrogated activists about participation in international forums. Most were let go; many have since left the country. Others remain in Russia, but will no longer speak up.Six months later, one remains in jail. Daria Egereva, one of Russia's foremost Indigenous rights activists, is accused of membership of a terror group. No trial date has been set. Her supporters say the charges are fabricated and she has been targeted for speaking out.Egereva was not just any activist. A member of the Selkup indigenous group, from western Siberia, she was a "bright star" of Russia's indigenous rights movement. As a member of the UN's Indigenous Peoples' Coordinating Body, she had international status. Weeks before her arrest, she had played a key role at Cop30 in Brazil as co-chair of the Indigenous People's Forum on Climate Change.Her jailing has shone a spotlight on the plight of Russia's Indigenous people, threatened by authoritarianism, extractivism and climate breakdown.The Climate Crisis in Russia's Arctic"They are really seeing the worst effects of climate change," said Alicia Moncada, director of global advocacy at Cultural Survival, which campaigns for Indigenous rights. "They are on the frontline of the frontline – that's why [Egereva's] advocacy was super important."The polar north is heating faster than any other part of the planet. In recent decades, temperatures in Arctic regions have risen three to four times faster than the global average. Communities based on permafrost are seeing their world collapse around them."The elders are saying that nature has stopped trusting us," said one exiled Indigenous leader, who requested that his name be withheld. "The traditional ways of predicting nature are not working any more."Many settlements sit next to the banks of rivers and lakes. Due to the melting permafrost, those banks are beginning to crumble. "There is a real threat of destruction for a lot of those villages," said the leader, who spoke through an interpreter. And the melting ice has brought a new source of tension: newly accessible critical mineral resources.Resource Extraction and Indigenous Displacement"All these resources of the Russian Federation, a majority of them are located under the lands of Indigenous people: gold, diamonds, oil, gas, coal," the leader said. "For some people it is a treasure, but for us it is a curse."Because the companies are coming to our land for those resources and they are pushing us out. Even if they don't push us out, the environmental situation in those places will become so bad that we are unable to hunt or fish."One of the elders said that we can adapt to anything, but we will not be able to survive without our land."The Government Crackdown on Indigenous ActivismAlthough Indigenous groups maintained their identities, by the end of the Soviet era they lacked independent organisation and relied on the state. Egereva had been part of a new generation of leaders who had encouraged community self-empowerment.But this assertiveness brought them into conflict with the authorities. Even before the war in Ukraine, the Russian state claimed that its enemies were exploiting environmental and indigenous issues. Now, with the war a pretext for a crackdown on civil society, Indigenous people are among those at the sharp end.To date, 830 organisations and 20,813 individuals have been put on the "list of terrorists and extremists", according to the UN. Among them was Aborigen Forum, a network of Indigenous defenders designated an "extremist organisation" in July 2024.Russian authorities have based their charges against Egereva and her co-defendant, Natalia Leongardt, a civil rights activist, on their involvement with Aborigen. Authorities claim it is part of an anti-state "post-Russia free nations forum".International Response and Russian DefenseIn a bail hearing on 29 April, Egereva and Leongardt denied being part of any anti-state conspiracy. "I am not familiar with and do not know this organisation," Egereva told the court. "What we are being accused of is completely untrue ... I ask to be allowed to return home and embrace my children."The court refused to grant them bail, remanding them in custody until at least mid-June. The following day, Russia celebrated a new federal holiday: the "Day of Indigenous Small-Numbered Peoples".The Russian embassy told the Guardian: "The investigation concerning Daria Egereva is an internal Russian legal matter, conducted in full accordance with Russian law. As proceedings are ongoing, we are not in a position to comment on the specifics of the case."Russia firmly rejects any allegations of violations of Indigenous people's rights. Unlike a number of western states – including Britain in its former colonies – Russia has no history of forced assimilation of Indigenous communities. Russian law affords Indigenous peoples special legal protections, guaranteeing their collective and individual rights, cultural identity, and linguistic heritage under the constitution and in line with international norms."Russia is actively engaged in the international climate agenda, taking account of both the challenges and the economic opportunities emerging in its northern regions – including expanded access to the northern sea route and mineral resources in permafrost zones. All such projects are carried out with the aim of supporting regional development, creating jobs and attracting investment, including for the benefit of Indigenous communities in these areas."

The End of an EraPep Guardiola will leave Manchester City at the end of the season after a decade in charge, the club has confirmed, bringing an end to one of the most successful eras in English football and one of the most influential managerial reigns of all time.The departure of the 55-year-old Catalan coach will close the book on a remarkable chapter that has seen City transform into a footballing juggernaut. Guardiola had arrived in Manchester with a resume already stuffed with silverware from Barcelona and Bayern Munich, taking over from Manuel Pellegrini in July 2016.The Trophy-Laden ReignGuardiola, who took charge of City in 2016, has won six Premier League titles – including four in a row – three FA Cups, five League Cups and the Champions League, but his side have not won the league in two years.Although City sealed the domestic cup double this season, Guardiola saw his dreams of a seventh Premier League crown dashed when they drew 1-1 at Bournemouth on Tuesday to hand Arsenal the title, with City set to finish second. His final game in charge is Sunday's home fixture against Aston Villa.The Tactical RevolutionAfter inheriting a successful club financed by the Abu Dhabi United Group, Guardiola will walk away having built a footballing empire after overseeing a paradigm shift in Premier League tactics. As Guardiola faced the challenge of adapting to England's famously fast-paced and physical league, possession became an art form and a defensive tool at City as his teams craved complete control.The result was not just utter dominance – evidenced by record-breaking campaigns like the 100-point 2017-18 season with 106 goals scored – but also relentless consistency year after year, including a record four league titles in a row. Guardiola's squads set new standards, forcing other teams to evolve, while City's financial muscle, combined with shrewd signings such as the much-sought-after striker Erling Haaland helped deliver the treble in 2022-23.The Changing LandscapeHowever, the spectre of the 115 charges of alleged breaches of the Premier League's financial rules looms large over his tenure at the club. His rivalry with former Liverpool manager Jurgen Klopp raised the bar in the Premier League so high that even 97 points proved insufficient for the Anfield side to claim the title in 2018-19.More recently, Guardiola has faced a challenge from his protege and former coaching assistant Mikel Arteta, who took charge at Arsenal and finished second behind City twice before ultimately winning the trophy this season.The Guardiola LegacyGuardiola looked back fondly at his time in Manchester, remembering how the city came together after the Manchester Arena attack while also describing how the club helped him through a tough period when he lost his mother to COVID."The fans, the staff, the people of Manchester, you gave me strength when I needed it most," he added. "Players don't forget – every single instant, moment, me, my staff, this club, everything. What we have done, we have done it for all of you. And you have been just exceptional. You don't know it yet, but you are leaving a legacy.""Don't ask me the reasons I'm leaving. There is no reason, but deep inside, I know it's my time," Guardiola said in a statement on Friday. "Nothing is eternal, if it was, I would be here. Eternal will be the feeling, the people, the memories, the love I have for my Manchester City."

The Lead: Indigenous Voices Warn of a New Extraction EraIn the arid dry‑tropical forest of La Guajira, Maria Elena Aguilar Uriana points to a dried‑up watering hole and describes how mining has already devastated her community. Now she and other Wayúu leaders fear that the country’s push for wind‑energy is creating a second wave of exploitation.Coal Mining Legacy and Emerging Renewable Projects in La GuajiraFor decades the region has been dominated by Cerrejón, one of the world’s largest open‑pit coal mines, operated by UK‑listed Glencore. The mine has polluted water, spread coal dust over pastures and forced families to relocate. Today, national and corporate plans aim to replace that extractive model with large‑scale wind farms, but Wayúu representatives say the same top‑down approach is being repeated.Scale of the Cerrejón Mine and Planned Wind InfrastructureCerrejón is among the biggest open‑pit coal mines globally, covering thousands of hectares.Renewable‑energy developers are proposing dozens of wind turbines across Wayúu territory, though exact capacity figures have not been disclosed publicly.The projects are promoted as “green” solutions for Colombia’s energy transition, yet community consent processes remain limited.Health, Water Scarcity and Displacement Impacts on Wayúu CommunitiesWayúu testimonies describe chronic respiratory illness, malnutrition and the loss of livestock due to coal dust and dwindling water supplies. José Silva Duarte, president of Nación Wayúu, notes that water is already scarce, and mining consumes vast quantities, forcing families to rely on state‑provided water deliveries or travel long distances to unsafe wells. The combined stress of past mining and looming wind projects has spurred migration to urban centres and across borders, eroding cultural practices built over centuries.Outlook: Negotiating Consent and Sustainable DevelopmentWhile Glencore asserts it monitors air quality and follows Colombian law in land purchases, Wayúu leaders demand genuine participation, protection of water resources and health safeguards before any renewable infrastructure proceeds. The coming months will test whether Colombia can balance its climate ambitions with the rights and wellbeing of its largest Indigenous group.

The Nuclear Buildup in Eastern Europe Earlier this week, Belarusian President Alexander Lukashenko for the first time took part in the "rehearsal" of Russia's use of tactical and strategic nuclear weapons. Between Tuesday and Thursday, he and Russian President Vladimir Putin presided over joint military drills covering the area from Eastern Europe to the Pacific, involving hundreds of Russian missile launchers, warplanes, warships and nuclear submarines. "We threaten absolutely no one," said Lukashenko, who has helmed Belarus since 1994. "But we have such weapons, and we're ready in every possible way to defend our common fatherland from [the western Belarusian city of] Brest to [Russia's Pacific port of] Vladivostok." Russia's Nuclear Drills and Capabilities "It's important to further boost the level of readiness of strategic and tactical nuclear forces," Putin stated during the exercises. Both leaders ordered the launch of the intercontinental, hypersonic Yars missile capable of carrying three independently targetable nuclear missiles, which flew 5,750km (3,573 miles) from the Plesetsk Cosmodrome in northwestern Russia to the Pacific Kamchatka Peninsula in less than 20 minutes. As part of the drills, Moscow supplied Minsk with modified Su-25 fighter jets and Iskander-M ballistic missiles with a range of up to 500km (310 miles). Nuclear weapons are reportedly stored at the Asipovichi military range, less than 200km (124 miles) north of the Ukrainian border. Geopolitical Implications The drills come amid heightened tensions between Russia and NATO. NATO Secretary-General Mark Rutte warned that if Moscow uses nuclear weapons against Ukraine, the alliance's response would be "devastating." The exercises are clearly timed to a summit of NATO foreign ministers in Sweden's Helsingborg, a venue symbolic as Sweden joined the alliance after Russia's full-scale invasion of Ukraine. "The events develop suddenly, seemingly without any external reasons," noted Nikolay Mitrokhin, a researcher with Germany's Bremen University. "Something big is taking place, something that will be significant for international politics in general, and for mass media, including the very supply of nuclear arms." Belarus's Calculus While Belarus enjoys economic preferences and cheap hydrocarbons from Russia, Lukashenko has resisted Putin's attempts to merge Belarus with Russia as part of "union state" deals dating back to the 1990s. In recent months, ties between Belarus and the United States have also warmed, with Lukashenko joining United States President Donald Trump's Board of Peace. "We're not going to get sucked into the war in Ukraine. There's no need for it, neither civil nor military," Lukashenko stated, signaling his readiness to meet with Ukrainian President Zelenskyy. "If [Zelenskyy] wants to discuss something, seek advice, or anything else, he's welcome. I'm ready to meet him anywhere in Ukraine or Belarus." Future Scenarios Ukrainian President Zelenskyy has warned that the drills may be part of Moscow's preparations to launch a new offensive against northern Ukraine and Kyiv after Russian troops failed to capture sizeable areas in eastern and southern Ukraine this year. However, the current concentration of Russian forces in Belarus is "insufficient" for a new offensive, according to the head of the Kyiv-based Penta think tank. "Attacking Ukraine with Belarusian forces alone may end very badly for Lukashenko," said Volodymyr Fesenko. "For him, involving Belarus in the war is too big a risk." Despite this, analysts acknowledge that "unfortunately, there is such a risk" of Belarus becoming more directly involved in the conflict, though most believe Lukashenko will avoid such a development.

The Performance We know that Aeneas is going to sail away. We know it before he arrives, before he declares his love to Dido, and certainly before the Sorceress and her witchy acolytes get all eye-of-newt about it. But when your opera house is the great hall under the Cutty Sark, and the clipper’s 200ft copper hull is rearing up over your head, it’s impossible to forget the tragedy that Purcell’s compact drama has in store. The Staging So you have to wonder why Andrew Staples, director of the Monteverdi Choir’s semi-staging, felt the need to work quite so hard? The space is the staging. You can try to ignore it (no mean feat when the museum’s collection of antique figureheads flanks the stage in a surreal guard of honour: Florence Nightingale rubbing painted wooden shoulders with Disraeli, Sir Lancelot and a selection of buxom lovelies), but you can’t work against it; you simply won’t win. The Musical Performance Close your eyes, though, and this was a rich account. Conductor Jonathan Sells rode every darting, eddying current in the score, the English Baroque Soloists a colourful, abandoned force in celebration, infinitely restrained elsewhere. Best of all were unaccompanied choral moments – “With drooping wings”, or the two interpolated Funeral Sentences – where movement and time stilled together, voices absolutely unified in their inflection, carving the music’s emotions with devastating clarity. The Vocal Performances The space’s natural resonance allied to some big voices made for an exciting central drama. German-Egyptian mezzo Karima el Demerdasch (definitely one to watch) was a voluptuous-voiced Dido, her suicidal queen still coming into focus. Johanna Wallroth’s radiant, exuberantly ornamented Belinda and Bethany Horak-Hallett’s sumptuous Sorceress supplied the rival musical poles, tugging us from good to ill and back again. And what a treat to have a properly baritonal Aeneas in Hubert Zapiór – a worthy lover and sparring partner for Demerdasch, a hero almost worth dying for. The Future of the Performance Next month the show travels to Norway for the Bergen festival. Cut loose from its nautical anchor, I suspect it’ll pick up several dramatic knots.

The UK's Cooling Revolution More than 4 million homes in the UK now have air conditioning, double the figure from just three years ago, marking a significant shift in how British households cope with increasingly hot summers. Types of Cooling Systems and Their Usage Portable units with power ratings around 1kW are slightly more common than the more powerful built-in versions that can guzzle 2.7kW of power – more than an electric oven. Of the 4 million households with air conditioning, nearly 1.9 million have built-in units, while 2.2 million homes use portable air conditioning units. More than 260,000 UK households have heat pumps that can be used to cool homes. When used in cooling mode, heat pumps work like traditional air conditioning units by extracting heat from the home and releasing it outside. The Financial Impact of Cooling The energy consumption and associated costs of air conditioning are substantial. In a typical week, households use their built-in units for about four hours at a cost of £2.93. However, during heatwaves when usage increases to over nine hours daily, weekly costs soar to £42.43. Portable units, which use 1kW of power, typically cost 83p per week with three hours of usage. During hot spells, when used for more than nine hours daily, this rises to £15.71 weekly. Climate Change Drivers Experts suggest the increase in air conditioning ownership is the result of more people working from home and rising summer temperatures. Some of the UK's warmest summers have been in recent years, with the record high of 40°C set in July 2022. The government's climate advisers have warned that British homes will need air conditioning to survive predicted levels of global heating, as traditional cooling methods like drawing curtains and opening windows become insufficient. Future Projections and Recommendations The Climate Change Committee has recommended that air conditioning should be installed in all care homes and hospitals within the next 10 years, and in all schools within 25 years. Heatwaves were expected to exceed 40°C in all parts of the UK by 2050, potentially leading to an additional 10,000 heat-related deaths annually. With about nine in ten UK homes likely to overheat, the adaptation to higher temperatures is becoming increasingly urgent. However, air conditioning is energy intensive, accounting for about 4% of global greenhouse gas emissions. Sustainable Cooling Solutions Sam Alvis, head of energy security at the IPPR thinktank, called for more solar panels on roofs alongside air conditioning installations. "We are going to have to get used to being a hot country, which is quite a mindset shift for the UK," he said. "Air conditioning is actually a great pair for solar from an energy system point of view because it matches supply and demand." More efficient modern systems using heat pumps, which are already subsidized by the government to replace gas boilers, could provide a more sustainable cooling solution, though these are rarely installed at present.

Thomas Tuchel unveiled England’s final 26‑man roster for the 2026 World Cup, delivering a mix of familiar faces and unexpected inclusions that signal a new tactical direction under the German coach.Tuchel’s Surprise Selections Shake Up England’s AttackIvan Toney (Al‑Ahli) returns after a year‑long absence, providing a second striker alongside Harry Kane.Djed Spence (Tottenham) replaces Trent Alexander‑Arnold at right‑back, despite a recent broken jaw.Midfield slots go to Jude Bellingham, Morgan Rogers and Eberechi Eze, leaving out Cole Palmer and Phil Foden.Defensive Re‑Prioritisation and the Exclusion of High‑Profile PlayersTrent Alexander‑Arnold omitted – Tuchel cites defensive reliability concerns.Harry Maguire left out, describing his reaction as “shocked and gutted”.Back‑line now features Reece James, Tino Livramento, John Stones, Marc Guéhi, Ezri Konsa, Dan Burn and Jarell Quansah.Financial Implications of Dropping Marketable StarsExcluding marquee names such as Alexander‑Arnold, Maguire, Palmer and Foden may affect commercial revenue streams tied to player image rights and sponsorships, though the impact is mitigated by the presence of globally recognised figures like Jude Bellingham and Harry Kane.Strategic Impact on England’s World Cup ProspectsThe dual‑striker option gives Tuchel tactical flexibility, while the defensive reshuffle emphasizes a more disciplined back‑line. However, the loss of creative midfield talent from Palmer and Foden could limit attacking variety, placing greater responsibility on Bellingham and the wing‑backs.Outlook: What to Watch as England Prepares for North AmericaKey indicators will be how quickly Toney regains international sharpness, Spence’s recovery from injury, and whether the midfield trio can blend effectively. If the squad gels, England retains a strong chance to contend for the title; if the gaps in creativity persist, the team may struggle against technically adept opponents.